continued from front page

The Cooks

It should not be construed that the food preparation was the exclusive province of our family women. To do so would be to underestimate the culinary contributions of some of the finest cooks in the clan. A few of my uncles, cousins, and Grandpa were cooks in the Army, Navy, and Marines, as well as in their own restaurants. My great-uncle served as a cook in the Italian army, then he was captured and recruited to cook in the prisoner-of-war camp. Upon his release, he served two tours as a cook in the U.S. Marines during the Korean War.

However, whatever greatness the men may have achieved in the outside world, the kitchen was ruled by those formidable yet diminutive, strikingly gorgeous, black-clad matriarchs of the family: great-grandmothers from both sides of the lineage, grandmothers, great-grandmother-in-laws, and great-great-aunts. Man, I'll tell ya, it was a sight to behold at best and an Italian culinary rivalry at least. Although sharing an Italian heritage, the six uncles married outside the Calabrian niche, creating a scrumptious provincial food fight.

The Kids

Children weren't immune from the holiday chores. Chairs were pulled up to the stove for short perpetual stirrers. The teens were given the sink for the never-ending pots and pans, and preteens were runners for last-minute fetches and food deliveries. I was honored almost exclusively with the delivery of food for the church and hospital shut-ins because I had the bike with a giant basket.

Trying to describe my cousins and most of the local kids wasn't hard. The first thing I recall was hair--lots of black hair--big doe eyes, dozens of beautiful children with wide grins. At least one kid, sometimes more, was forced to bring his or her accordion, and at every holiday gathering, some poor child was browbeaten into playing "Lady of Spain"!

The Holiday Table

Serving 30 to 40 people in a one-bedroom apartment on the third-floor rear walkup was a challenge--but doable. It took the coordination of most of our wonderful neighbors and the cooperation of all the residents, who were always invited anyway. Everyone brought pots, pans, dishes, utensils, and at least one chair, and some brought their kitchen tables. Everyone brought something edible, from bread to heirloom dessert recipes, enough for at least a good spoonful for everyone to get a taste. Older adults always got a chair at the table; all adults got a seat; and kids sat at the card tables, on the stairs, or on a carpet in front of the radio in one of the neighbors’ homes.

The Prayer

All kids had to be within earshot of the saying of the formal grace before dinner. Then all recited their own prayers in the various languages of their native tongues. Our family and friends were of many faiths and nationalities; the overwhelming majority, of course, were Italian. Most remembered a loved one not present, and the names of every absent serviceman and woman were individually read aloud. With all heads bowed, everyone gave thanks for the wonderful gifts of food and health, and each and every person present gave a special thanks and told how grateful they were for being in the United States of America.

The Food

Food for an Italian holiday is second only to the family. Present at every holiday feast were several types of entrées: lasagna, ham, veal, one or more specialty pastas, and of course the giant turkey. There were kosher dishes aplenty for our many Jewish friends. Our next-door neighbors kept a kosher kitchen and always shared their wonderful food with us, as we did in return.

Not counted as entrées were homemade sausages, meatballs, and grilled peppers. A strange calzone, one I recall with nuts and octopus, was always somewhere on the table, as was braciola (Italian beef rolls). Great cannoli desserts were always compliments of the Sicilian side of our family.

Salads and antipasto were a mainstay, with favorites like cellentani con insalata di peperone (cellentani pasta with pepper salad). There were the ever-popular soups, usually a bean, as in minestrone. Breads, rolls, pizza, and a mixed variety of biscotti were always in abundance.

Side dishes were meals in themselves. A vast array of vegetables prepared as specialty items, like artichoke and bacon frittata, rounded out every holiday meal. Even our popular lasagna, the recipe that created a chain of famous restaurants, had broccoli or spinach as a principle ingredient. Desserts...oh my, great custards, pastries, ice creams, and cakes such as lemon berry tiramisu or frittelle di zucca (pumpkin fritters).

The Moment of Truth

My grandfather sat at the head of the table, and next to him sat a gallon jug of his homemade Italian red wine. Almost everyone seated for dinner was given a glass of his wine, if only for the many toasts that were posed--to the cooks and a milieu of other celebrations. The moment of truth came when he would call the names of the boys that he felt to be worthy of manhood, a scholarship known only to him that involved some mysterious merit method. If you attained that status in his trusted eye, he would invite you to accept a glass of wine, and he would toast your new position. With everyone's applause, you drank a glass and thanked him.

When my moment came, I had just turned 10 and had worked with him on his paper stand in downtown Chicago for 3 years. To my surprise, he felt I was ready! Proudly, I swallowed a huge gulp and felt the heat go down my throat and explode at the core of my stomach--and begin to rush back up. I smiled, swallowed again, and hugged him as my uncle secretly handed me a chunk of bread (which I bit into and forced down). I never drank another drop of his wine but accepted his offer to take a glass, each time he offered it, until he passed away a year later. How I loved that man.

The Family

Any good excuse to gather the clan in our family was--and still is--paramount. Weddings, holidays, birthdays, anniversaries, births, baptisms, and unfortunately funerals are used as good excuses to get together and, you guessed it, eat. This is usually done at the home of the eldest family member. The Italian family circle is close and tight, and many families still living in their hometown reside within walking distance of one another. In our family, as in many, brothers, sisters, grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins grow as one family unit. The elders live within the homes of their offspring or siblings. The hierarchy is established by the ability of the surviving parents to have living arrangements central to the greatest number of kids and kin. Love of family is the reason, and love of food is the cement.

Thanksgiving is one of the most popular days of the year and has been since my earliest memory. Even today, as I did with my parents in my youth, I talk to each of my five children and my grandchildren almost every day and have even when we lived thousands of miles away.

I am truly blessed.

2 pounds sweet potatoes, boiled, peeled, and mashed
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup buttermilk
1/2 cup raisins (optional)
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 tablespoon butter, melted
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Coat a baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.
2. In a large bowl, mix the sweet potatoes, eggs, buttermilk, raisins (if using), brown sugar, butter, nutmeg, cinnamon, and baking soda. The mixture will be very soupy. Pour into the prepared baking dish.
3. Bake for 1 hour, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean.

6–8 potatoes, thinly sliced
1 can (10 ounces) Cheddar cheese soup
1 cup Velveeta cheese cubes
1 1/2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese
1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
Salt and pepper

1. Coat a Crock-Pot with nonstick cooking spray. Add half of the potatoes.
2. Add half each of the soup, Velveeta, Cheddar, and milk. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
3. Repeat to use the remaining potatoes, soup, Velveeta, Cheddar, and milk.
4. Cook on high for about 6 hours. (Check occasionally to see if more milk is needed.)
Note: You can preboil the potatoes for quicker cooking.

1/4 cup water
2 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 cans (16 ounces each) pineapple chunks packed in juice
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon sugar
1 1/2–2 cups miniature marshmallows
3" of a 3-pound loaf of Velveeta cheese, cubed

1. In a medium saucepan, mix the water and cornstarch until smooth. Drain the pineapple juice into the pan. Whisk in the egg and sugar.
2. Whisk over low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, or until thick. Let cool for 10 minutes.
3. Place the pineapple in a large bowl. Stir in the marshmallows and Velveeta. Pour in the juice mixture and mix well.

Pumpkin Filling
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon bitters (optional)
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons butter
1 can (29 ounces) pumpkin
1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
1 cup water
1/4 cup milk

Praline Layer
2/3 cup light brown sugar
2/3 cup pecans, coarsely chopped
4 tablespoons butter, softened

2 unbaked piecrusts
Whipped cream (optional)

1. To make the pumpkin filling: In a large bowl, mix the granulated sugar, brown sugar, flour, bitters (if using), cinnamon, ginger, salt, nutmeg, and cloves. Stir in the egg.
2. Melt the butter in a large skillet over low heat. Add the pumpkin and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until the puree thickens slightly.
3. Gradually stir the hot pumpkin into the sugar mixture. Stir in the evaporated milk, water, and milk. (Note: If desired, cover and refrigerate overnight.)
4. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
5. To make the praline layer: In a medium bowl, mix the brown sugar, pecans, and butter.
6. Spread half of the praline mixture in each piecrust. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the praline is golden brown and bubbly. Cool slightly.
7. Reduce the oven temperature to 400°F.
8. Pour half of the pumpkin filling into each crust and smooth the top with a spatula. Bake for 1 hour, or until the filling is firm and the crusts are golden brown.
9. Cool completely. Serve garnished with the whipped cream (if using).

12 ounces wide lasagna noodles
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
20 ounces frozen broccoli
1 container (16 ounces) ricotta cheese
1/4 cup sour cream
1/2 tablespoon chopped parsley
2–3 cups tomato sauce
12 ounces mozzarella cheese, shredded

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat a 13" x 9" baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.
2. Cook the noodles according to the package directions. Drain, then toss with the oil, salt, and pepper.
3. Cook the broccoli according to the package directions. Drain.
4. In a small bowl, mix the ricotta, sour cream, and parsley.
5. Arrange one-third of the noodles in the prepared baking dish. Cover with half of the broccoli and one-third of the tomato sauce. Sprinkle with one-third of the mozzarella.
6. Make another layer of noodles, broccoli, tomato sauce, and mozzarella. Top with the ricotta mixture. Add the remaining noodles, tomato sauce, and mozzarella.
7. Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for 15 minutes, or until the top is browned.

1/2 cup lukewarm water
1/3 cup dried porcini mushrooms
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 onion, chopped
1 cup button mushrooms, chopped
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup tomato paste
Pinch of salt
Dry Marsala (optional)

1. Combine the water and porcini mushrooms in a small bowl and let stand for 30 minutes, until rehydrated.
2. Remove the mushrooms from the water and chop them. Reserve the water and pour it through a small sieve (lined with a coffee filter) into a bowl to remove any sediment.
3. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat and sauté the onion for 5 minutes, or until translucent. Add the button mushrooms and porcini mushrooms; sauté for 5 minutes.
4. Add the heavy cream and reserved porcini water. Simmer for 5 minutes, or until the sauce begins to thicken a bit. Add the tomato paste and salt. Simmer for 5 minutes. Season with the Marsala (if using) and cook for a few minutes more.

2 cups mayonnaise
4 anchovy fillets, minced
1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar
1 green onion, chopped
2 teaspoons chopped parsley
2 teaspoons chopped chives
1 teaspoon chopped tarragon or 1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, anchovies, vinegar, green onion, parsley, chives, and tarragon.

Note: To serve, rub a large salad bowl with cut garlic halves; discard the garlic. Add salad greens or watercress to the bowl. Top with the dressing and toss well to coat.